Acne: Types, Causes, Treatments, and the Functional Medicine Approach
Explore the clinic directoryIn this article
- Acne at a Glance
- What Is Acne, Really? The Pathophysiology Explained
- The 5 Types of Acne You Need to Know
- Acne Grading Systems
- Causes and Triggers: Why You Break Out
- Conventional Treatments: The Standard Playbook
- Acne Treatment for Teens, Adults, Pregnancy and Darker Skin Tones
- The Regenerative and Functional Medicine Approach
- Acne Scarring: Types and Treatment Options
- When to See a Dermatologist
- Who Treats Acne? Choosing the Right Provider
- Does Insurance Cover Acne Treatment?
- Frequently Asked Questions
- The Bottom Line
- Related Reading
Acne at a Glance
- Affects: Up to 85% of people ages 12 to 24
- Types: Comedonal, inflammatory, cystic, hormonal, fungal
- Root causes: Excess sebum, bacterial overgrowth, inflammation, hormones
- Conventional Tx: Retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, antibiotics, isotretinoin
- Regenerative Tx: Gut healing, zinc, omega-3s, red/blue light, PRP
- Scarring options: Microneedling, PRP, laser resurfacing, subcision
- See a derm if: Cystic lesions, scarring, or OTC treatments fail after 8 weeks
- Key insight: Acne is often a surface signal of deeper internal imbalances
Acne treatment works best when it matches the acne type: retinoids and salicylic acid for blackheads and whiteheads, benzoyl peroxide plus a retinoid for red papules and pustules, spironolactone or oral contraceptives for hormonal jawline acne in women, and isotretinoin for severe cystic acne. Acne (acne vulgaris) affects up to 85% of people aged 12 to 24, and the American Academy of Dermatology's 2024 guidelines give their strongest recommendations to benzoyl peroxide, topical retinoids, topical antibiotics, oral doxycycline and, for severe or scarring acne, oral isotretinoin.
What this article covers
- Acne affects roughly 50 million Americans each year and up to 85% of people aged 12 to 24; it is driven by excess sebum, clogged follicles, Cutibacterium acnes bacteria and inflammation, not by poor hygiene.
- The American Academy of Dermatology (Reynolds and colleagues, 2024) strongly recommends benzoyl peroxide, topical retinoids, topical antibiotics, oral doxycycline and, for severe, scarring or treatment-resistant acne, oral isotretinoin.
- Topical retinoids need 8 to 12 weeks to show their effect, spironolactone about 3 months, and a full isotretinoin course usually runs 5 to 6 months, so judging a treatment after two weeks is too early.
- Functional medicine adds gut, diet and nutrient work alongside standard care: zinc (30 to 45 mg daily) and omega-3s (2,000 mg EPA plus DHA in a 2014 trial by Jung and colleagues) have the most supportive data, while gut and probiotic research is still emerging.
- For acne scars, microneedling combined with platelet rich plasma (PRP) outperformed microneedling alone in randomized trials, and subcision, TCA CROSS and fractional laser target specific scar types.
- See a board certified dermatologist when acne scars, forms deep cysts, or has not improved after 8 to 12 weeks of over the counter care.
Acne is the most common skin condition in the United States. It affects roughly 50 million Americans every year and shows up across every culture and skin type. It is also widely misunderstood.
Many people believe acne is a teenage problem caused by dirty skin. Both ideas are wrong. Acne can start or continue at any age, and it has very little to do with hygiene. It is an inflammatory condition shaped by hormones, genetics, gut health, diet and immune function.
The sections below explain what acne is, why it happens, how to tell the types apart, how dermatologists grade it, every major treatment option from conventional prescriptions to regenerative and functional approaches, how to treat scarring, and when to see a specialist. They apply whether you are a teenager with a first breakout or an adult still getting pimples at 35. For a shorter overview of the condition itself, see the acne condition page.
What Is Acne, Really? The Pathophysiology Explained
Acne (acne vulgaris) is a chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit. That is the technical name for the structure that includes your hair follicle and its attached sebaceous (oil) gland.
Here is how the process unfolds, step by step:
Step 1: Excess Sebum Production
Your sebaceous glands produce an oily substance called sebum. Sebum is not inherently bad. It keeps your skin moisturized and protected. But when your glands go into overdrive, usually triggered by androgens (male hormones that both men and women produce), you end up with too much oil clogging the works.
Step 2: Follicular Hyperkeratinization
Normally, dead skin cells shed from the lining of your pores and get pushed to the surface. In acne-prone skin, these cells become sticky and clump together, forming a plug called a microcomedone. This is the invisible seed of every pimple.
Step 3: Bacterial Colonization
Cutibacterium acnes (formerly called Propionibacterium acnes, or P. acnes) is a bacterium that naturally lives in your pores. It feeds on sebum. When a pore is plugged and fills with oil, C. acnes has an unlimited food supply and its population grows rapidly. Researchers now think the balance of C. acnes strains matters more than the total amount, since people with clear skin carry the bacterium too.
Step 4: The Inflammatory Cascade
Your immune system detects the bacterial overgrowth and sends in inflammatory cells. These immune cells release cytokines, enzymes, and free radicals that damage the follicular wall. The result: redness, swelling, pus, and pain. If the inflammation goes deep enough, it destroys tissue and causes scarring.
Each of the four steps is a treatment target. Retinoids and salicylic acid act on follicular plugging, benzoyl peroxide and antibiotics act on C. acnes, hormonal therapies and isotretinoin reduce sebum, and anti-inflammatory approaches calm the immune response. Combination therapy usually outperforms a single product because it acts on more than one step at once, which is why most dermatologist regimens pair two or three agents.
The 5 Types of Acne You Need to Know
Acne comes in five common types: comedonal, inflammatory, cystic (nodulocystic), hormonal and fungal. The type you have, and often the mix of types, determines which treatment will work best.
1. Comedonal Acne
This is the mildest form. It shows up as blackheads (open comedones) and whiteheads (closed comedones). There is little to no inflammation. You will not see redness or swelling. Comedonal acne responds well to topical retinoids and salicylic acid.
2. Inflammatory Acne
Red, swollen papules and pustules. This is what most people picture when they think of acne. The bumps are tender to the touch and can leave behind red or brown marks (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation). Benzoyl peroxide, retinoids, and sometimes topical antibiotics are first-line treatments.
3. Cystic/Nodulocystic Acne
The most severe form. Deep, painful nodules and cysts that sit under the skin for weeks. Cystic acne carries the highest risk of permanent scarring. It almost always requires prescription treatment, and isotretinoin (Accutane) is often the only thing that provides lasting clearance. Early treatment matters more here than with any other type, because each deep nodule that heals on its own can leave a permanent mark. The options for this type are covered in more depth in our guide to severe acne treatment.
4. Hormonal Acne
Typically appears along the jawline, chin, and lower cheeks. It flares with menstrual cycles, is common in women with PCOS (polycystic ovary syndrome), and often persists into the 20s, 30s, and beyond. Hormonal acne in women may respond to spironolactone, oral contraceptives, or addressing underlying hormonal imbalances such as insulin resistance. Irregular periods, excess facial hair or scalp thinning alongside jawline acne are reasons to ask about PCOS testing, which the complete PCOS guide walks through. Hormone driven breakouts have their own playbook, set out in hormonal acne treatment options.
5. Fungal Acne (Malassezia Folliculitis)
This is technically not acne at all. It is caused by an overgrowth of Malassezia yeast in hair follicles. It looks like small, uniform, itchy bumps, usually on the forehead, chest, or upper back. The giveaway: it itches (true acne usually does not), and it does not respond to standard acne treatments. Antifungal medications such as ketoconazole cream or oral fluconazole usually clear it, and a dermatologist can confirm the diagnosis with a quick KOH skin scraping.
| Type | Appearance | Common Location | First-Line Treatment |
|---|---|---|---|
| Comedonal | Blackheads, whiteheads | T-zone, forehead | Retinoids, salicylic acid |
| Inflammatory | Red papules, pustules | Cheeks, forehead, chin | Benzoyl peroxide + retinoid |
| Cystic | Deep nodules, cysts | Jawline, cheeks, back | Isotretinoin (Accutane) |
| Hormonal | Deep, tender bumps | Jawline, chin, lower face | Spironolactone, oral contraceptives |
| Fungal | Uniform, itchy bumps | Forehead, chest, upper back | Antifungal (ketoconazole) |
Acne Grading Systems
Dermatologists use grading systems to classify acne severity and guide treatment decisions. The two most commonly used are:
The Global Acne Grading System (GAGS): Scores acne by location and lesion type. Each area of the face and body receives a factor score multiplied by the most severe lesion type present. Total scores range from 0 (clear) to 44 (very severe).
The Leeds Revised Scale: Uses photographic comparison to grade inflammatory acne from 1 to 12, with separate grading for the face, chest, and back.
The Simplified Classification Most Doctors Use:
- Mild: Mostly comedones, few papules, no nodules
- Moderate: Mix of comedones, papules, and pustules; some scarring risk
- Severe: Numerous inflammatory lesions, nodules and/or cysts, active scarring
Clinical trials submitted to the FDA usually use a third tool, the Investigator's Global Assessment (IGA), which rates acne from 0 (clear) to 4 (severe). When a study reports "treatment success," it normally means a drop to clear or almost clear on the IGA plus at least a two grade improvement.
Knowing your grade helps determine whether you need over-the-counter products, prescription topicals, systemic medications, or a combination approach.
Causes and Triggers: Why You Break Out
Acne has a genetic foundation. Twin studies attribute roughly 80% of the variation in who develops acne to inherited factors, and a parent or sibling with acne raises your own odds. Genes set the susceptibility; hormones, diet, stress, medications and skincare decide how much of it shows. The triggers below are covered one by one in what causes acne.
Hormones
Androgens (testosterone, DHEA-S, DHT) are the primary hormonal drivers. They increase sebum production and promote follicular plugging. This is why acne peaks during puberty and why women often break out before their periods, during pregnancy, or with conditions like PCOS. Insulin and IGF-1 (insulin-like growth factor) also play a role by stimulating androgen production and sebaceous gland activity.
Diet
The connection between food and acne was dismissed for decades. The research now tells a different story:
- High-glycemic foods (white bread, sugar, processed carbs) spike insulin and IGF-1, which ramp up sebum production. Multiple controlled studies link high-glycemic diets to increased acne severity.
- Dairy (especially skim milk) contains hormones and bioactive molecules that may worsen acne. The association is moderate but consistent across several large observational studies.
- Whey protein supplements are a common trigger, particularly in athletes. Whey spikes insulin and contains growth factors that stimulate sebaceous glands.
- Chocolate: The evidence is mixed. Some small studies suggest cocoa itself may increase inflammatory lesions, but the sugar and dairy in most chocolate products are likely the bigger issue.
Stress
Chronic stress raises cortisol, which increases sebum production and impairs wound healing. College students consistently show acne flares during exam periods. Stress also disrupts the gut microbiome, creating another pathway to skin inflammation (more on this below).
Medications
Several drugs can cause or worsen acne:
- Corticosteroids (“steroid acne” is very real)
- Lithium
- Androgenic steroids and testosterone therapy
- Some anticonvulsants
- B vitamins (particularly B6 and B12 in high doses)
- Certain progestins in hormonal contraceptives
Skincare and Environmental Factors
Comedogenic (pore-clogging) products are a real issue, especially heavy foundations, coconut oil, and certain sunscreens. Friction from helmets, phones, or face masks (“maskne”) can worsen acne in those areas. Humidity and sweating contribute by creating a breeding ground for bacteria and yeast.
Conventional Treatments: The Standard Playbook
These are the treatments you will find in every dermatology textbook. They work, and they are backed by decades of research.
The current US standard is the American Academy of Dermatology's 2024 Guidelines of care for the management of acne vulgaris (Reynolds and colleagues, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology). It makes strong recommendations for benzoyl peroxide, topical retinoids, topical antibiotics and oral doxycycline, and strongly recommends oral isotretinoin for acne that is severe, scarring, causing psychosocial burden or failing other therapy. It makes conditional recommendations for clascoterone, salicylic acid, azelaic acid, minocycline, sarecycline, combined oral contraceptives and spironolactone. It also advises limiting how long oral antibiotics are used, always pairing them with topical therapy, and using steroid injections for large, painful nodules.
Topical Treatments
Benzoyl Peroxide (BPO)
Evidence: Strong
Benzoyl peroxide kills C. acnes bacteria through oxidation. Unlike antibiotics, bacteria cannot develop resistance to BPO. Available in concentrations from 2.5% to 10%. Research shows 2.5% is just as effective as 10% with far less irritation. Use it as a wash or leave-on treatment. It bleaches fabrics, so white pillowcases and towels are your friend.
Benzoyl peroxide can break down into benzene, a carcinogen, when stored at high heat. In March 2025 the FDA reported that it had tested 95 benzoyl peroxide acne products and found elevated benzene in six, which were recalled at the retail level; more than 90% had undetectable or extremely low levels. Storing products at room temperature, away from a hot car or steamy shower, and replacing them by the expiration date are sensible precautions.
Retinoids (Tretinoin, Adapalene, Tazarotene)
Evidence: Strong
Retinoids are the backbone of acne treatment. They normalize skin cell turnover, prevent follicular plugging, reduce inflammation, and even help fade post-inflammatory marks. Adapalene (Differin) 0.1% gel has been available over the counter since 2016. Tretinoin, tazarotene and trifarotene, a newer retinoid approved in 2019 that is often used for chest and back acne, require a prescription. Start slow (every other night or even every third night) and expect a “purging” period of 4 to 6 weeks where acne temporarily worsens before improving.
Topical Antibiotics
Evidence: Moderate
Clindamycin and erythromycin are the most common topical antibiotics for acne. They reduce C. acnes and have anti-inflammatory effects. The catch: they should NEVER be used alone due to the risk of antibiotic resistance. Always combine with benzoyl peroxide. Combination products like clindamycin/BPO gel simplify this. In 2023 the FDA approved the first fixed triple combination gel, which pairs clindamycin, adapalene and benzoyl peroxide in a single once daily product.
Clascoterone (Topical Androgen Blocker)
Clascoterone 1% cream was approved by the FDA in August 2020 for acne vulgaris in patients 12 and older. It blocks androgen receptors in the skin, the first topical drug to target the hormonal driver of acne, and is applied twice daily. Because it works on the skin rather than the whole body, it is an option for men and for teens who cannot take spironolactone. The AAD gives it a conditional recommendation, and it is often more expensive than older topicals.
Azelaic Acid
Evidence: Strong
An underrated gem. Azelaic acid (15% to 20%) is antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and helps fade hyperpigmentation. It is safe during pregnancy (a rarity among acne medications) and works well for both acne and rosacea. It can cause mild tingling initially.
Salicylic Acid
Evidence: Moderate
A beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that penetrates oily pores and dissolves the “glue” holding dead skin cells together. Best for comedonal acne and blackheads. Available in 0.5% to 2% OTC products. Less potent than retinoids but better tolerated.
Systemic Treatments
Oral Antibiotics
Evidence: Strong
Doxycycline and minocycline are the most prescribed oral antibiotics for moderate-to-severe inflammatory acne. They work quickly (usually within 4 to 6 weeks) but should be limited to 3 to 4 months to minimize antibiotic resistance and gut microbiome disruption. Always use alongside topical retinoids and BPO. Sarecycline, a narrower spectrum tetracycline approved in 2018, was designed to have less effect on gut bacteria. Oral tetracyclines are not used in pregnancy or in children under 8 because they can stain developing teeth.
Isotretinoin (Accutane)
Evidence: Strong
Isotretinoin is the most effective acne medication available. It shrinks sebaceous glands by up to 90%, normalizes skin cell shedding, reduces C. acnes, and calms inflammation. A typical 5- to 6-month course produces long-term remission in about 85% of patients. Dermatologists usually dose it at 0.5 to 1 mg per kg of body weight per day and aim for a total course dose of about 120 to 150 mg per kg, which lowers the chance of relapse.
The downsides are real: mandatory pregnancy prevention (isotretinoin causes severe birth defects, and every patient, prescriber and pharmacy must be enrolled in the FDA's iPLEDGE REMS program), monthly blood tests, dry skin and lips, potential mood changes (the depression link is debated but should be monitored), and possible musculoskeletal effects. Despite the side effect profile, isotretinoin remains the single most effective treatment for severe or treatment-resistant acne.
Spironolactone (For Hormonal Acne in Women)
Evidence: Strong
Spironolactone is a blood pressure medication that also blocks androgen receptors. At doses of 50 to 200 mg daily, it is highly effective for hormonal acne in women. Results typically appear within 3 months. Side effects can include increased urination, breast tenderness, irregular periods, and elevated potassium. It should not be used in men or during pregnancy. In the SAFA trial (Santer and colleagues, BMJ, 2023), 410 women with persistent acne took 50 mg rising to 100 mg daily or placebo, and spironolactone improved acne quality of life scores, with a larger difference at 24 weeks than at 12. The AAD rates the evidence as conditional, but many dermatologists now use spironolactone as an alternative to long antibiotic courses in adult women.
Oral Contraceptives
Evidence: Strong
Combined oral contraceptives containing estrogen and a non-androgenic progestin can significantly improve acne in women. They work by reducing free testosterone and decreasing sebum production. Three to four months of consistent use is needed to see results. They are particularly effective when combined with spironolactone for stubborn hormonal acne.
| Treatment | Best For | Time to Results | Key Side Effects |
|---|---|---|---|
| Benzoyl Peroxide | Mild to moderate | 2 to 4 weeks | Dryness, irritation, bleaching |
| Retinoids | All types | 8 to 12 weeks | Dryness, peeling, purging |
| Oral Antibiotics | Moderate inflammatory | 4 to 6 weeks | GI upset, sun sensitivity, resistance |
| Isotretinoin | Severe/cystic | 1 to 2 months | Dryness, lab changes, teratogenic |
| Spironolactone | Hormonal (women only) | 2 to 3 months | Frequent urination, breast tenderness |
Acne Treatment for Teens, Adults, Pregnancy and Darker Skin Tones
The same medications are used across most age groups, but the order and the limits change with age, pregnancy plans and skin tone. The AAD 2024 guideline applies to everyone with acne from age 9 upward, including preadolescents.
What is the right acne treatment for teenagers?
Teen acne usually starts with comedones on the forehead and nose and moves to inflammatory papules as puberty advances. First line care is a topical retinoid such as adapalene plus benzoyl peroxide, with a short course of oral doxycycline added for moderate inflammatory acne. Clascoterone is approved from age 12, and isotretinoin is used for severe, scarring or stubborn acne under iPLEDGE monitoring.
How is adult acne treated differently?
Adult acne, especially in women, is more often hormonal, deeper and concentrated on the jawline and chin. Dermatologists lean more on spironolactone, combined oral contraceptives and clascoterone, and less on repeated antibiotic courses. New acne after age 25 is also a reason to review medications, stress and conditions such as PCOS, and some adults choose to work with a functional medicine physician on gut and metabolic factors alongside their dermatologist.
Which acne treatments are used during pregnancy?
Azelaic acid, topical clindamycin and benzoyl peroxide are the options most often used in pregnancy, and oral erythromycin or azithromycin are sometimes prescribed for inflammatory flares. Isotretinoin, oral tetracyclines (doxycycline, minocycline, sarecycline), spironolactone and tazarotene are avoided, and most clinicians also stop tretinoin and adapalene. Plans for pregnancy or breastfeeding should be shared with whoever prescribes acne medication.
What should people with darker skin know about acne treatment?
In medium and dark skin tones (Fitzpatrick types IV to VI), the dark marks left after a pimple, called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, often bother people more than the acne itself and can last for months. Retinoids and azelaic acid treat both the acne and the discoloration, and daily sunscreen keeps marks from darkening. Irritating products and aggressive lasers or peels can trigger new pigmentation, so it is worth asking a provider how often they treat your skin type.
The Regenerative and Functional Medicine Approach
Conventional dermatology is effective. But it often treats acne as a purely skin-level problem. Functional and regenerative medicine asks a different question: what is happening inside the body that is showing up on the skin?
This is not about replacing established treatments. It is about adding deeper layers of investigation and healing.
The Gut-Skin Axis
Evidence: Emerging
The connection between gut health and skin health is one of the most exciting areas of research in dermatology. Here is what we know:
- People with acne are more likely to have altered gut microbiome composition compared to people with clear skin.
- Small intestinal bacterial overgrowth (SIBO) is significantly more common in acne patients.
- Intestinal permeability (“leaky gut”) may allow bacterial endotoxins into the bloodstream, triggering systemic inflammation that shows up on the skin.
- A 2023 meta-analysis found that probiotic supplementation reduced acne lesion counts in multiple randomized controlled trials.
Functional practitioners often start with a detailed stool analysis to evaluate the microbiome, check for dysbiosis, and look for markers of intestinal inflammation. Treating gut issues, whether that is SIBO, dysbiosis, food sensitivities, or impaired digestion, can produce significant skin improvements in some patients. Breath testing and the treatment options for bacterial overgrowth are covered on the SIBO treatment guide. Much of this work is not covered by insurance, and the evidence linking gut treatment to clearer skin comes from small studies rather than large trials.
Zinc Supplementation
Evidence: Strong
30 to 45 mg of elemental zinc daily reduces inflammatory lesions by up to 50% in studies. Zinc has antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and androgen-modulating properties. Best forms: zinc picolinate, zinc bisglycinate, or zinc methionine. Take with food to avoid nausea.
Omega-3 Fatty Acids
Evidence: Moderate
EPA and DHA reduce inflammatory mediators (PGE2, LTB4) involved in acne. A 2014 randomized, double blind trial by Jung and colleagues found 2,000 mg of EPA plus DHA daily significantly reduced inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions over 10 weeks in 45 people with mild to moderate acne. Fish oil or algae-based sources are both effective.
Probiotics
Evidence: Emerging
Oral and topical probiotics show promise. Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium strains reduce systemic inflammation and may improve gut barrier function. Topical probiotics are a newer frontier. Look for strains with clinical data: L. rhamnosus, L. acidophilus, B. bifidum.
Food Sensitivity Testing and Elimination Diets
Evidence: Emerging
Beyond dairy and high-glycemic foods, some individuals have specific food sensitivities that trigger or worsen acne through immune-mediated inflammation. Common culprits include gluten, eggs, soy, and certain nuts.
Functional practitioners may use IgG food sensitivity testing as a starting point, though the gold standard remains a structured elimination diet: remove suspect foods for 4 to 6 weeks, then reintroduce them one at a time while tracking skin changes. This approach requires patience but can uncover hidden triggers that no topical product will fix.
Red Light and Blue Light Therapy
Evidence: Moderate
Light-based therapies offer a drug-free approach to acne management:
- Blue light (415 nm): Kills C. acnes bacteria by activating porphyrins (light-sensitive molecules) within the bacteria. Most effective for mild to moderate inflammatory acne. In-office treatments show better results than home devices due to higher intensity.
- Red light (630 to 660 nm): Reduces inflammation and promotes tissue repair. Less antibacterial than blue light, but better for calming active inflammation and supporting healing.
- Combination red/blue light: Several studies show this outperforms either wavelength alone. A 2019 systematic review found combination LED therapy reduced inflammatory lesions by 46% to 77% over 4 to 8 weeks.
Home LED devices have become popular. They can help maintain results, but manage expectations: at-home devices are significantly less powerful than clinical-grade units. For moderate to severe acne, professional treatments tend to deliver better outcomes. Light therapy is cleared by the FDA as a device for mild to moderate inflammatory acne, but the AAD 2024 guideline does not list it among its core recommendations, and sessions are usually cash pay. The red light therapy treatment guide explains wavelengths and session formats, and red light therapy for skin reviews the dermatology research. Providers who offer it are listed in the red light therapy clinic directory.
Additional Functional Approaches
Vitamin D optimization: Low vitamin D is associated with increased acne severity in multiple studies. Testing and supplementing to reach 40 to 60 ng/mL is reasonable.
Berberine: A plant compound that improves insulin sensitivity and has antimicrobial properties. Some practitioners use it as a natural alternative for metabolic-driven acne.
DIM (Diindolylmethane): Derived from cruciferous vegetables, DIM supports healthy estrogen metabolism and may help with hormonally-driven breakouts.
Spearmint tea: Two cups daily has been shown to reduce free testosterone in women, with some studies showing improvement in hormonal acne. A gentle option worth trying.
Acne Scarring: Types and Treatment Options
Even after active acne clears, the scars can linger for years or a lifetime. Understanding scar types is critical because each responds to different treatments. Atrophic (depressed) scars are far more common than raised ones, and most people have a mix of types that calls for a combined plan. A deeper walk through each procedure is in acne scar treatment options.
Types of Acne Scars
- Ice pick scars: Deep, narrow, pitted scars that extend into the dermis. The most difficult to treat.
- Boxcar scars: Broad, rectangular depressions with sharp edges. Respond well to resurfacing.
- Rolling scars: Wide, shallow depressions with smooth, undulating borders. Caused by fibrous bands tethering the skin.
- Hypertrophic/keloid scars: Raised, thickened scars from excess collagen production. More common on the chest, back, and jawline.
- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH): Not true scars, but dark marks left behind after a pimple heals. These fade with time and topical treatment.
- Post-inflammatory erythema (PIE): Red or purple marks from damaged blood vessels. Common in lighter skin tones. Pulsed dye laser and time are the most reliable treatments.
Regenerative Scar Treatments
| Treatment | Best Scar Type | Sessions Needed | Evidence Level |
|---|---|---|---|
| Microneedling | Rolling, boxcar | 3 to 6 sessions | Strong |
| PRP + Microneedling | All atrophic types | 3 to 4 sessions | Strong |
| Fractional CO2 Laser | Boxcar, rolling | 1 to 3 sessions | Strong |
| Subcision | Rolling scars | 1 to 3 sessions | Strong |
| TCA Cross | Ice pick scars | 2 to 4 sessions | Strong |
| Dermal Fillers | Rolling, boxcar | 1 session (repeat yearly) | Moderate |
PRP (Platelet-Rich Plasma) for Acne Scars
PRP deserves special attention in any discussion of regenerative approaches to scarring. The treatment involves drawing a small amount of your blood, spinning it in a centrifuge to concentrate the platelets and growth factors, and then applying or injecting the PRP into scarred areas.
Multiple randomized controlled trials have shown that microneedling combined with PRP produces significantly better scar improvement than microneedling alone. The growth factors in PRP (PDGF, TGF-beta, VEGF) stimulate collagen remodeling, angiogenesis, and tissue regeneration. A 2021 systematic review and meta-analysis confirmed that adding PRP to microneedling improved scar outcomes by an additional 20% to 30% compared to microneedling with saline.
Sessions are typically spaced 4 to 6 weeks apart. Most patients need 3 to 4 sessions for optimal results. Downtime is minimal: redness for 24 to 48 hours, with full recovery within a few days.
PRP for acne scars is an off label, cosmetic use. The centrifuge systems are FDA cleared for preparing platelet concentrate, not specifically for scar treatment, so insurance rarely pays and protocols differ between practices. The PRP treatment guide covers preparation methods and evidence across uses, and practices offering it are listed in the PRP clinic directory.
Microneedling for Acne Scars
Microneedling (also called collagen induction therapy) uses tiny needles to create controlled micro-injuries in the skin. This triggers your body’s wound-healing cascade, producing new collagen and elastin that fills in and smooths out scars.
Professional microneedling devices use needle depths of 1.0 to 2.5 mm for acne scars. Home dermarollers (0.25 to 0.5 mm) can help with product absorption and mild texture improvement, but they do not reach deep enough to remodel scar tissue. For real scar revision, you need a professional setting.
Results are cumulative. You will see gradual improvement over 3 to 6 months as new collagen matures. Combining microneedling with PRP, growth factor serums, or radiofrequency energy can enhance results.
When to See a Dermatologist
Self-treatment is reasonable for mild acne. But there are clear situations where professional help is needed:
- Your acne is leaving scars. Scarring means tissue destruction is happening now. Do not wait.
- Over-the-counter treatments have not worked after 8 to 12 weeks. You have given them a fair shot. Time to escalate.
- You have deep, painful nodules or cysts. These require prescription treatment and sometimes cortisone injections for acute flares.
- Your acne is affecting your mental health. Acne-related depression and anxiety are real and common. You deserve help.
- You suspect hormonal acne. Blood work can identify hormonal imbalances, and targeted treatment can make a dramatic difference.
- Your acne appeared suddenly in adulthood. New-onset adult acne can signal hormonal changes, medication side effects, or other medical conditions worth investigating.
A good dermatologist will assess your acne type and severity, discuss your history and goals, and build a treatment plan that may include topicals, systemic medications, procedures, or referral for functional evaluation. If your current provider only offers topical prescriptions and does not discuss lifestyle factors, consider seeking a practitioner who takes a more detailed approach.
Who Treats Acne? Choosing the Right Provider
Acne is treated by several types of clinicians, and the right choice depends on severity and on whether you want root cause testing. A board certified dermatologist (MD or DO) is the standard choice for moderate to severe, cystic or scarring acne and prescribes most isotretinoin through the iPLEDGE program. Physician assistants and nurse practitioners in dermatology practices prescribe most of the same medications.
- Primary care physicians and pediatricians treat mild to moderate acne with topicals and oral antibiotics and refer severe cases.
- Gynecologists and endocrinologists evaluate hormonal acne linked to PCOS, irregular cycles or other endocrine conditions.
- Functional and integrative medicine physicians and naturopathic doctors look at gut health, diet, insulin resistance and nutrient status, often alongside a dermatologist.
- Aesthetic and medical spa clinicians deliver procedures such as light therapy, chemical peels, microneedling and PRP for active acne and scarring.
- Licensed estheticians perform extractions and facials but cannot prescribe medication.
Before booking, it helps to ask what the first line plan is, how long before progress is reviewed, which parts are covered by insurance, and who handles prescriptions if a procedure based clinic does not.
How to read the acne clinic directory
The acne treatment clinic directory lists dermatology, functional medicine and aesthetic practices that report offering acne care, with state pages such as acne clinics in California, New York acne treatment providers, Pennsylvania and Massachusetts. Regenerated.com is free for patients, and listing order is not a paid ranking. Featured slots are labeled and capped, and Verified means a clinic completed credential checks, not that it paid more. Inclusion in the directory is not an endorsement, and how Featured, Verified and organic listings differ explains each label.
Does Insurance Cover Acne Treatment?
Insurance usually covers medical acne care: dermatology visits, generic topical retinoids and benzoyl peroxide prescriptions, oral antibiotics, spironolactone and isotretinoin. Newer branded products such as clascoterone or fixed combination gels often need prior authorization or step therapy, which means trying older generics first.
Scar procedures are a different category. Microneedling, PRP, laser resurfacing, chemical peels and dermal fillers for acne scars are treated as cosmetic by most insurers and are paid out of pocket, and the same is true of most light therapy sessions. Functional medicine testing such as stool analysis or food sensitivity panels is frequently not covered either. Prices vary widely by region and provider, so ask for a written estimate and the number of sessions planned before starting a cash pay series.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does diet really cause acne?
Diet does not cause acne on its own, but in people already prone to it, high glycemic foods and dairy, especially skim milk, are linked to more severe breakouts in controlled and observational studies. Whey protein supplements are another common trigger. Responses vary widely from person to person, so the practical test is a low glycemic, dairy free diet for 6 to 8 weeks while tracking your skin with photos.
Is Accutane (isotretinoin) safe?
Isotretinoin (Accutane) is considered acceptable for most people with severe acne when a dermatologist monitors it, and it has been in use since 1982. Dry skin, lips and eyes are common and resolve after treatment. Rarer risks include raised liver enzymes, high cholesterol and mood changes. Because it causes severe birth defects, the FDA's iPLEDGE program requires pregnancy prevention and testing, and blood work is checked during the course.
Why do I still have acne as an adult?
Adult acne affects up to 15% of women and 5% of men, and hormonal fluctuation is the most common driver, especially around menstrual cycles, perimenopause and PCOS. Chronic stress, gut dysbiosis, diet and some medications play larger roles than in teenage acne. Adult treatment leans more on spironolactone, oral contraceptives or clascoterone, plus a search for underlying causes, than on long antibiotic courses.
How do I know if I have fungal acne?
Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) usually shows up as small, uniform, itchy bumps on the forehead, chest or upper back that do not improve with benzoyl peroxide or retinoids. True acne lesions vary in size and rarely itch. A dermatologist can confirm the diagnosis with a KOH skin scraping or fungal culture, and antifungals such as ketoconazole cream or oral fluconazole usually clear it quickly.
Can probiotics really help acne?
Probiotics can help some people as an add-on, but they are not a standalone treatment for moderate or severe acne. Several randomized trials found that oral Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium strains reduced inflammatory lesions, likely by improving gut barrier function and lowering systemic inflammation. The research is still early and products differ widely, so choose multi strain products that publish strain specific research and use them alongside standard care.
How long does it take for acne treatments to work?
Most acne treatments need 8 to 12 weeks before you can judge them fairly. Benzoyl peroxide often helps within 2 to 4 weeks, oral antibiotics within 4 to 6 weeks, topical retinoids within 8 to 12 weeks after an initial flare, and spironolactone within 2 to 3 months. Isotretinoin usually shows clear improvement by month 2 or 3, and a full course lasts 5 to 6 months.
What is the best skincare routine for acne-prone skin?
A simple routine works best for acne-prone skin: a gentle, non foaming cleanser twice daily, a retinoid at night, benzoyl peroxide in the morning if tolerated, a lightweight non comedogenic moisturizer, and sunscreen every morning, ideally a mineral formula with zinc oxide. Skip toners, essences and extra serums until the acne is controlled, because every added product is another chance of irritation or clogged pores.
Can PRP and microneedling actually fix acne scars?
PRP and microneedling can improve acne scars substantially but rarely erase them. Studies report 50% to 70% improvement in scar appearance after a series of microneedling sessions, and adding platelet rich plasma improved results by a further 20% to 30% in trials. Rolling and boxcar scars respond best, while ice pick scars usually need TCA CROSS as well. Most people need 3 to 6 sessions, usually paid out of pocket.
Should I pop my pimples?
It is better not to pop pimples, because squeezing pushes bacteria deeper, spreads inflammation and raises the risk of scars and dark marks. If you do, only touch a whitehead with a visible head, wash your hands, open it gently with a sterile needle, and press lightly with two cotton swabs. Never squeeze deep, painful bumps. A hydrocolloid pimple patch worn overnight is a gentler alternative.
What is the connection between gut health and acne?
The gut-skin axis links digestive health to skin inflammation. An imbalanced gut microbiome can increase intestinal permeability, letting inflammatory molecules into the bloodstream that can show up on the skin as acne. Studies find different gut bacteria in people with acne than in controls, and SIBO appears more often in acne patients. Diet changes, probiotics and treating SIBO help some people, though results vary widely and the research is still emerging.
The Bottom Line
Acne is complex, but it is treatable. The key is matching your treatment to your specific type of acne, your triggers, and your goals.
For mild acne, a simple routine of retinoid plus benzoyl peroxide clears most people. For moderate inflammatory acne, adding a short course of oral antibiotics or switching to a combination approach accelerates results. For hormonal acne in women, spironolactone, often paired with an oral contraceptive, is a well studied option. For severe cystic acne, isotretinoin remains the gold standard.
And for anyone interested in a deeper approach, functional medicine offers valuable tools: gut health optimization, targeted supplementation with zinc and omega-3s, dietary modification, and advanced regenerative treatments like PRP and light therapy.
The worst thing you can do is nothing. Untreated acne causes unnecessary scarring and significant psychological harm. Whether you start with over-the-counter products or go straight to a dermatologist, an early start limits scarring. The acne treatment overview summarizes every option side by side, and the national directory of acne clinics lists dermatology, functional medicine and aesthetic practices by state and city.
This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult with a qualified healthcare provider before starting any new treatment.
Related Reading
- Ehlers-Danlos Syndrome: Diagnostic Criteria, Types, and What the 2026 Updates Mean for You
- Leaky Gut Syndrome: What the Research Actually Says
- PRP Therapy: How Platelet-Rich Plasma Works and What It Treats
- SIBO (Small Intestinal Bacterial Overgrowth): Types, Testing, Treatment, and Why It Keeps Coming Back